Housing:
These types of diminutive roaches should be started out in a fairly small enclosures nothing bigger than a gallon. 16 oz delis for small species and gallon containers from the Dollar Tree for larger ones are my personal favorites. Once their numbers rise you can house them in something larger, something up to 5 gallons would suffice as a permanent setup. Adults of all of these species and nymphs of some species climb very well, and are small enough to slip through tiny cracks, their lid will need to be airtight, and ventilation should be provided in the form of microscreen, or a LOT of pinholes.
These types of diminutive roaches should be started out in a fairly small enclosures nothing bigger than a gallon. 16 oz delis for small species and gallon containers from the Dollar Tree for larger ones are my personal favorites. Once their numbers rise you can house them in something larger, something up to 5 gallons would suffice as a permanent setup. Adults of all of these species and nymphs of some species climb very well, and are small enough to slip through tiny cracks, their lid will need to be airtight, and ventilation should be provided in the form of microscreen, or a LOT of pinholes.
A very thin layer of silicone oil also works wonders to keep them from getting out of their enclosure, but definitely only use it around the upper rim of the enclosure, and don't over do it. Small nymphs can easily drown in a thick layer of silicone oil or other similar barriers.
The substrate should be an inch or so of coconut fiber or something similar, and plenty of hides in the form of leaf litter, bark hides, cardboard rolls, eggcrates, and maybe small "roach-huts" should be provided. Some of these species are ground dwellers that prefer hides low to the ground, and others are more arboreal and prefer vertical hides to climb on.
Many (but not all) of these species prefer high humidity, but regardless of humidity most of them need at least a moderate level of ventilation, as stuffy, humid air can make colonies of even the most humidity living species sickly, and greatly shorten adult lifespans. Additionally, small nymphs can drown in condensation. So moderate to high amounts of lid and cross ventilation are recommended. Be careful though, as you don't want them drying out too much in between waterings, that can prove to be a fatal mistake for certain species. Also make sure your ventilation holes aren't big enough for tiny hatchlings to escape from, some of these species have tiny first instars!
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed, fruits, veggies, and pollen/artificial pollen work great for their staple diet, most species aren't very picky when it comes to food. Just be sure to remove leftovers every few days, as tiny nymphs can get tangled up in mold strands from uneaten food.
The substrate should be an inch or so of coconut fiber or something similar, and plenty of hides in the form of leaf litter, bark hides, cardboard rolls, eggcrates, and maybe small "roach-huts" should be provided. Some of these species are ground dwellers that prefer hides low to the ground, and others are more arboreal and prefer vertical hides to climb on.
Many (but not all) of these species prefer high humidity, but regardless of humidity most of them need at least a moderate level of ventilation, as stuffy, humid air can make colonies of even the most humidity living species sickly, and greatly shorten adult lifespans. Additionally, small nymphs can drown in condensation. So moderate to high amounts of lid and cross ventilation are recommended. Be careful though, as you don't want them drying out too much in between waterings, that can prove to be a fatal mistake for certain species. Also make sure your ventilation holes aren't big enough for tiny hatchlings to escape from, some of these species have tiny first instars!
Diet:
Dog/cat/chick feed, fruits, veggies, and pollen/artificial pollen work great for their staple diet, most species aren't very picky when it comes to food. Just be sure to remove leftovers every few days, as tiny nymphs can get tangled up in mold strands from uneaten food.
Temperature:
Most species seem to breed best at temperatures from 74-85F°, but many will breed at slightly lower temps as well.
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adults are normally short lived, only living 3-4 months in general depending on the species, but ooths tend to hatch fast and nymphs are often very fast growing too. Adults of most species are quite prolific, and if set up properly a lot of these species do have feeder potential.
Most Blattellinae aren't that sensitive, lapses in care, overly filthy enclosures, horribly stuffy conditions and extreme pest outbreaks are the main causes of colony crashes. They are much hardier than Pseudophyllodromiinae IMO, and even the more finicky ones can usually bounce back just fine with a bit of babying and a fresh setup. If kept properly, most of these can be prolific enough to use as occasional or consistent feeders for smaller predators.
Species notes:
Anallacta methanoides:
A beautiful species that seems to be a bit finicky regarding humidity. Prefers semi-humid conditions, and oddly do best for some people with lots of ventilation, and for others they do best with very little ventilation. They're arboreal and prefer vertical hides and a tall enclosure. Adults live 4-5 months, and the females adhere their ooths to hides. Said ooths take around 2 months to hatch, and the nymphs take another 4-5 months to reach maturity.
Blattella asahinai:
A cute little species that prefers semi-humid to humid conditions, and good airflow. Prefers more vertical style hides as they enjoy climbing, all life stages climb smooth surfaces well so an airtight lid and climbing barrier is recommended.
Blattella germanica:
The dreaded "German Roach", these prefer dry conditions, will breed readily at most temperatures and oddly don't seem to love overcrowding. Prefers more vertical style hides as they enjoy climbing, all life stages climb smooth surfaces well so an airtight lid and climbing barrier is highly recommended.
Blattella vaga:
This species prefers semi-humid conditions and good airflow. Oddly some reports indicate this species may need a higher than average amount of salt in their diet to do well long term. Prefers more vertical style hides as they enjoy climbing, all life stages climb smooth surfaces well so an airtight lid and climbing barrier is recommended.
Dipteretrum hanstromei:
This little species prefers very dry conditions, with adults coming out with deformed antennae if kept overly humid. A quarter of the substrate should be kept moist, the rest bone dry, with a good amount of ventilation. This species does enjoy climbing but will also stay low to the substrate, so hides both low to the ground and vertically slanted hides will be used. All life stages climb well, so an airtight lid and climbing barrier are recommended. Adults live 4-6 months, and are quite prolific. Their ooths take 1-2 months to hatch, and the nymphs take ~6 months to mature.
Ectobiidae sp. "Malaysia - Little Penguin":
This species prefers high humidity and are quite arboreal. They can be insanely prolific when cares for properly but don't handle lapses in care well. All life stages climb smooth surfaces well so an airtight lid and climbing barrier is highly recommended.
Ischnoptera bilunata:
This species does well kept quite humid, with low to moderate airflow. They're more of a ground dwelling species, so leaf litter, horizontal bark hides, paper towel tubes and eggcrates work well. Adults can climb smooth surfaces and fly.
Ischnoptera deropeltiformis:
This species appreciates high humidity and moderate to high airflow. Some northern localities require a winter diapause. As usual for this genus they are ground dwelling and prefer hides low to the ground such as leaf litter, bark, cardboard rolls, eggcrates, etc.. A chunky substrate or substrate covered in bark chips/mulch is appreciated since this species doesn't love touching loose substrate.
Adults live up to 5-6 months, with males dying first. The ooths are normally buried under debris, and take 3-5 months to hatch. The resulting nymphs take 5-10 months to mature depending on the temperature/diapause requirement. Adults can climb smooth surfaces and males can fly.
Ischnoptera rufa:
This species does well kept quite humid, with low to moderate airflow. They're more of a ground dwelling species, so leaf litter, horizontal bark hides, paper towel tubes and eggcrates work well. Adults can climb smooth surfaces and fly.
Ischnoptera sp. "Perry, FL":
This potentially undescribed species appreciates high humidity and moderate to high airflow. This species is ground dwelling like most of this genus, and prefers hides low to the ground such as leaf litter, bark, cardboard rolls, eggcrates, etc.. A chunky substrate or substrate covered in bark chips/mulch is appreciated since this species doesn't love touching loose substrate.
Adults live up to 5-6 months, with males dying first. The ooths are normally buried under debris, and take 3-5 months to hatch. The resulting nymphs take 5-10 months to mature depending on the temperature. Adults can climb smooth surfaces and males can fly.
Loboptera decipiens:
This species does well with a 50/50 humidity gradient, and high ventilation. Spends a lot of time in hides low to the ground such as leaf litter, bark slabs and eggcrates. All life stages climb well, thought thankfully adults of both sexes have vestigial wings and can not fly. Pretty sensitive to lapses in care and possibly filth buildups.
Lobopterella dimidiatipes:
These aren't that picky about humidity, though most opt for keeping them fairly humid, but with high ventilation. Another species that does well with hides low to the ground like leaf litter, bark slabs, eggcrates, etc.. All life stages climb well, but adults of both sexes have very short wings and can't fly. Quite hardy and prolific, this species has some feeder potential.
Paratemnopteryx couloniana:
This species does well under a variety of conditions, though apparently preforms best when kept warm and humid. They are quite prolific and so make great feeders, probably one of the best Ectobiid feeder species out there. Adults can climb smooth surfaces, but nymphs can not.
Pseudomops septentrionalis:
This beautiful species has ground dwelling nymphs and more arboreal adults, they they don't need a lot of verticality to do well. They'll thrive in semi-humid and humid setups with moderate to high ventilation. Plenty of hides should be provided in the form of leaf litter, bark, eggcrates, etc.. Apples and pollen/artificial pollen are a favorite of adults, though the staple diet should still be dog food or some equivalent.
Adults can live up to 8 months, with males dying faster than females. Females are prolific egg layers, which only take 2-3 months to hatch. The resulting nymphs take 6-9 months to mature under optimal conditions, however the growth rates of this species are normally quite staggered, which can make pairing a pain at times.
Symploce incuriosa:
This species prefers high humidity, which is odd considering it's a South African species. All life stages climb well, and adult males can fly. Very prolific, could definitely be used as feeders.
Symploce morsei:
This pretty species can be rather finicky compared to the other hobby Symploce, and does best kept quite humid and warm. Good ventilation is appreciated as well. All life stages can climb well, and adults of both sexes can probably fly. Sometimes their ooths just refuse to hatch for some breeders, and so far we're not exactly sure why (likely minute humidity differences IMO).
Symploce pallens:
This greenhouse pest is quite prolific and easy to breed, prefers pretty humid conditions. All life stages climb well and adult males can fly. Definitely has feeder potential.
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