Small containers work best for most species in this genus, which makes sense considering many of them live in the confines of rodent burrows for much of their life. For a good sized starter group of your typical Arenivaga species, I'd recommend using a container no larger than 2 qts, upgrade the enclosure size once they fill up that one, (which could take a while). It all depends upon the species though, some like a roomier cage, as they can get territorial and cannibalize or bite off legs of their tankmates, (like genitalis or tenax for example). Others simply need a larger enclosure because of their size, like the unusually large bolliana or floridensis.
The substrate should be at least a couple inches deep, and should consist of fine coconut fiber or a similar material.
It's typically recommended not to use sand, as most commonly available sands are much too abrasive for them, and very hard to maintain a proper humidity gradient with. However, soft river sand can be used for some spp., at least when mixed in with coconut fiber. While they may live in sandy habitats in the wild, the micro-habitats Arenivaga live in aren't necessarily very sandy. Many species are found in rodent burrows for example, which often have a light, soft layer of what is presumably decaying vegetation and dust on the floor, which is apparently rather close to the texture of coconut fiber.
As stated before, substrate shouldn't be too chunky, as the smaller nymphs may have a difficult time getting around, (sifting the coconut fiber to keep it pretty fine may be necessary for some species). On top of the substrate, there should be a layer of crushed, dead hardwood leaves, as it seems to be an important part of their diet.
Most of the enclosure should be kept dry, with a quarter to a third of the substrate kept moist at all times. Most times I opt for horizontal gradients, but you can also use a vertical humidity gradient instead, with the lower layers of the substrate kept moist, and the upper layers dry, (some species actually prefer this). Ventilation levels should be very high, as most Arenivaga become prone to fungal infections when ventilation is too low, and females can refuse to lay oothecae without enough airflow.
Diet:
Decaying hardwood leaf litter should be available at all times, as should some sort of protein source, like dog/cat food or chick feed. Most fruits and veggies go untouched.
Temperature:
Room temps work well for breeding Arenivaga, 70-75F°. However if you keep them more in the 75-85F° range, they'll grow and breed faster (though this can also result in slightly smaller adults).
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adult females live up to 1-2 years, depending on the species, and males typically only live 1-2 months at most. The females lay small, inconspicuous oothecae in the substrate that take 3-5 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take around a year or two to mature, (all depending on how much protein they get, and at what temperatures they are kept). Overall, care of this genus seems to be pretty straightforward, but they are certainly more fragile than many of the exotic Corydiidae genera, like Polyphaga or Therea.
Most of the enclosure should be kept dry, with a quarter to a third of the substrate kept moist at all times. Most times I opt for horizontal gradients, but you can also use a vertical humidity gradient instead, with the lower layers of the substrate kept moist, and the upper layers dry, (some species actually prefer this). Ventilation levels should be very high, as most Arenivaga become prone to fungal infections when ventilation is too low, and females can refuse to lay oothecae without enough airflow.
Diet:
Decaying hardwood leaf litter should be available at all times, as should some sort of protein source, like dog/cat food or chick feed. Most fruits and veggies go untouched.
Temperature:
Room temps work well for breeding Arenivaga, 70-75F°. However if you keep them more in the 75-85F° range, they'll grow and breed faster (though this can also result in slightly smaller adults).
Breeding/Life cycle:
Adult females live up to 1-2 years, depending on the species, and males typically only live 1-2 months at most. The females lay small, inconspicuous oothecae in the substrate that take 3-5 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take around a year or two to mature, (all depending on how much protein they get, and at what temperatures they are kept). Overall, care of this genus seems to be pretty straightforward, but they are certainly more fragile than many of the exotic Corydiidae genera, like Polyphaga or Therea.
Species notes:
Arenivaga bolliana:
One of the easier species to breed, and also the largest Arenivaga species, period. Does best with a third to half the substrate kept humid, the rest dry. Other than that, care is standard for this genus.
Arenivaga floridensis:
The most challenging of the Arenivaga species, these seem to prefer a very specific humidity gradient, and typically only like hanging out where the dry substrate touches the humid substrate. Does better in larger setups, and can tolerate some sand in it's substrate. Very fine, loose substrate is recommended, since they are one of the few cultured Arenivaga found in sand dunes. Males mature MUCH faster than females, which also makes breeding a huge pain.
Arenivaga genitalis:
This species doesn't like crowding and can be quite aggressive towards each other in cramped conditions. Prefers a vertical humidity gradient.
Arenivaga tenax:
Can be rather prolific if kept properly, pretty standard care for Arenivaga. Can be a bit cannibalistic when crowded/not given enough protein.
Arenivaga tonkawa:
One of the easiest species to breed, a bit more humid loving than most Arenivaga, seems to prefer a third to half the enclosure being kept humid (but with LOTS of airflow). Prolific and hardy.
No comments:
Post a Comment