Nyctoporis carinata

This caresheet should be applicable to the other Nyctoporis species.

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Housing:

Any container half a gallon to a gallon in size, with more width than depth, (but still with at least 3-4 inches of depth) will work well for a starter colony, and you can upgrade the enclosure size a bit as their population grows. None of the life stages can climb smooth surfaces, so a tight fitting lid is not necessary.

For the substrate, this species isn't very picky, fine coconut fiber or a mix of coconut fiber and sand work well for adults and developing larvae, you can mix in other organic matter as well, just be sure not to make it too coarse. However, when it comes time for pupation, larvae and pupae do prefer a more sand based substrate. Bark and/or cardboard hides are recommended for the adults,  while the larvae will spend all their time underground.

Most of the main enclosure should be kept dry, with a quarter to a third of the substrate being kept moist at all times. You can go with a horizontal humidity gradient, or, if you have enough substrate depth, a vertical humidity gradient, (which would probably allow for larvae to pupate in the communal enclosure successfully). They should be given a very high amount of ventilation, as per usual for desert/scrubland dwelling Tenebrionids, in fact you could probably get away with keeping them in a lidless enclosure, provided the substrate is an inch or two below the top of the container.

Diet:

Dog/cat/chick feed works as the staple diet, they'll also nibble on leaf litter if you offer it. Most fruits and veggies usually go ignored, but some root veggies may be accepted.

Temperature:

They breed well at temps from 70-80F°. Any lower will greatly slow or halt reproduction and possibly larval growth, though they can probably take higher temps no problem, it's just not necessary.

Breeding/Life cycle:

Adults live for 1-2 years on average it seems. Females lay dozens of eggs during their lifespan, which are pretty large in comparison to their bodies and oval in shape. The eggs take less than a month to hatch, and the resulting larvae take 6-8 months to mature, then create a pupal cell and enter the pre-pupal stage for approximately 1-2 weeks. Then they molt into a pupa, and typically in about a month they will eclose into a soft, teneral adult.

Ideally, in a large enough enclosure with a proper humidity gradient, larvae will successfully pupate and mature in a communal setup. However, if for some reason there are too many individuals in the enclosure, or the enclosure is too small, has an improper humidity gradient, etc., or you just want to maximize the amount of adults you rear per generation, you may need/want to isolate larvae yourself to induce successful pupation. 

To do so, remove fully grown larvae from the main enclosure and isolate them in 1-2 oz deli cups with minimal ventilation, and a couple CMs of humid, compressed substrate, preferably a sand and coconut fiber mixture (the sand helps hold the substrate together and ensures their pupal cells keep their shape). Leave them be and don't feed them, just make sure the substrate stays humid enough to stay compressed and hold it's shape, but not dripping wet either (which will kill the larvae/pupae).

After the adult beetles eclose and darken up a bit in color, they usually dig their way to the surface. Definitely wait for them to emerge from their cells themselves, disturbing them when teneral seems to be very dangerous for this particularly species. Once they dig themselves up, they should be left in their humid pupal deli cups for another few days, offered food, and perhaps better ventilation (while still keeping the humidity raher high). After a few days, it should be safe to move them to their drier breeding setup. And the cycle begins anew.

Laniatores spp. (Armored Harvestmen)

This caresheet has proven applicable to Cynortoides, Sclerobunus, Stygnomma, and Vonones thus far, and is likely applicable to a wide variety of genera in Laniatores. Some parts of this caresheet may be applicable to other suborders of Opiliones as well.

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Housing:

Generally it's recommended to start these harvestmen out in an approximately one gallon enclosure, moderately ventilated. You can increase the enclosure size as the colonies grow.

There should be about an inch of substrate, which can consist of coconut fiber, potting soil, sphagnum peat, etc., preferably topped with bark chips, bits of moss and leaf litter, chunks of wood, etc., for females to lay eggs on/under. Most of these harvestmen prefer high humidity.

Plenty of hides in the form of leaf litter, bark slabs, eggcrate, and cardboard rolls should be provided, preferably varying in size, with lots of smaller crack and crevices that immatures can hide in. While these harvestmen tend to be fairly communal when well fed, they should have PLENTY of hiding spots for multiple life stages to peacefully coexist.

Diet:

Most species will feed on large/medium springtails (such as Coecobrya, Entomobrya, Willowsia, etc.) and fruit flies, along with larger prekilled, soft bodied invertebrates, fish food, dog/cat food, and fresh fruits. Some species lean more towards being predatory vs opportunistic scavengers, and vice versa, but all will appreciate a mix of the two diet types for best results.

Temperature:

Most of the southern ranging genera like it warm year round, 75-85F°. Some of the more northern genera (like Sclerobunus) like it quite cool though, and may even require winter diapauses.

Breeding/Life Cycle:

Adults typically live at least a year, and lay eggs sporadically throughout their lives. These eggs are usually adhered to objects on the ground in moist areas (sometimes covered in substrate/frass), and typically take a month or so to hatch. The resulting offspring take 4-6 months to mature on average, depending on the species, temperature, and food availability. Most species can be kept communally at all life stages, though cannibalism can occur if there's not enough space, proper hiding places, or enough live prey available.

Species Notes:

Cynortoides quadrispinosa:

This species was somewhat recently introduced to Florida, and has become well established there. They evaded detection for a while though, despite their relatively large size and colorful patterning, because they look very much like the native Vonones spp. also found in FL. They differ in being flatter and broader than Vonones, darker in color, and adults have four short spines on their backs, compared to the two spines on V.ornata, and no spines on V.sayi.

One of the easiest to keep and most prolific species of Laniatores, all life stages generally get along great, and they don't seem to rely heavily on live prey, preferring to scavenge instead.

Sclerobunus nondimorphicus:

While these will feed on a variety of foods, they definitely seem to prefer having live springtails and other tiny prey items regularly available. They are also very heat sensitive and prefer temps below 73F° at all times, and likely need a cold winter diapause possibly dropping to the 40-50F° range.

Stygnomma sp. "Big Pine Key, FL":

These little cuties are pretty easy to keep, they very rarely seem to cannibalize and are fast breeders as well. Will eat springtails and also scavenge on other food sources just fine. Being a smaller species, these can be started out in a fairly small enclosure, half a gallon or so works great.

Vonones ornata:

This species is one of the most well known harvestmen species, period. Very popular in culture, though often confused with V.sayi. True ornata are restricted to FL, and have two spines on their backs.

Typical care for this suborder, however while they can get along communally when kept optimally, live prey is ESSENTIAL to them, otherwise they'll cannibalize and kill each other quite quickly. A constant supply of springtails and/or fruit flies works just fine, and in addition they'll also still scavenge on larger prekilled inverts, fruits, and dog/cat/fish food.

Vonones sayi:

Probably THE most commonly kept harvestmen, very often mislabeled as V.ornata (however unlike true V.ornata, this species lacks any spines on their backs). Quite widespread in the southeast US, and comes in a variety of color forms.

This species is more of an opportunistic scavenger than ornata and much less cannibalistic, though they still seem to love feeding on springtails and the like. Overall a more forgiving species than V.ornata.

Pseudoglomeris spp.

I've already written a caresheet for P.magnifica, which you can read here. This sheet is for the rest of the Pseudoglomeris spp. in culture, most of which are temperate Chinese species.

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Housing:

A one gallon container will work well for a starter colony, they can then be moved to a larger enclosure as they start breeding. This genus generally enjoys a good amount of of verticality, so keep that in mind when picking out an enclosure. An airtight lid is suggested, as all life stages can climb smooth surfaces, and males of most species can fly. A climbing barrier such as silicone oil can be used around the upper rim of their setup, but it's possible small nymphs could get trapped and drown in such barriers, so make sure the barrier is only a thin coating.

A thin layer of substrate should be provided, such as coconut fiber or peat moss. Plenty of hides in the form of curved hardwood or cork bark slabs slanted against each other, cork hollows, and perhaps small rotten logs with holes bored into them should be provided. This genus seems to prefer thicker bark with lots of large cracks and crevices, pockets and dents in it, with cork being their favorite. I've noticed cottonwood bark works pretty good as well.

This genus does enjoy climbing and most species are rather arboreal, so they'll appreciate you arranging their hides to be vertically slanted, and/or adding climbing branches to their setup.

In terms of humidity, most species seem to do best when only a quarter to a third of the enclosure is kept humid, with light mistings every few days if your air humidity is particularly low. They should be given a high amount of cross ventilation, as good airflow seems to be pretty important to this genus. Stuffy, stagnant air appears to greatly slow down reproduction like in Perisphaerus spp.

Diet:

A staple diet of dog/cat/fish food, fresh fruits, along with pollen or artificial pollen works best for this genus. In general, most of the black species are more generalist in terms of diet, whereas the brighter colored (and often metallic) species tend to be palynivores in the wild, which will greatly benefit from having pollen available 24/7, as well as fruits. But all species seem to have a sweet tooth, so I'd at least offer fruits to all of them, if not pollen as well to be safe.

Temperature:

Most of the Pseudoglomeris in culture (besides P.tarsalis and P.v.valida) come from temperate China, and so do best when kept in the 75-85F° range through Spring, Summer and much of Fall. However, they also need a winter diapause, normally starting in November and ending February, at around 60-65F° to thrive. 

Pseudoglomeris beybeinkoi in particular appears to be very heat sensitive, and doesn't even like their Summer temps to rise much above 77F°.

The few tropical species in culture like P.tarsalis, P.v.valida, etc. should just be kept in the 75-85F° range year round, no dispause needed.

Breeding/Life cycle:

Adult males typically live for at least 6-8 months under optimal conditions, with females often living twice as long. Females gestate for around 3-4 months under optimal conditions, depending on clutch size, giving birth once or twice a year (however, gestation times can be doubled or even tripled if kept too cool, too humid, fed improperly, if not given enough ventilation, or if put through any number of other stressors). Normal sized litters contains roughly 15-20 nymphs, which then take 8-11 months to mature, depending on diet and temperature.

Newborn nymphs tend to stay near adult females for at least one molt, and the females display a level of maternal care, usually shielding the nymphs with their bodies when disturbed.

This genus can be sensitive to pest infestations, and likely high numbers of isopods and large prolific springtails, (like Coecobrya sp. "Tropical Pink", Entomobrya unostrigata, etc.). Additionally, like Perisphaerus, Pseudoglomeris don't eat their shed skins, which are quite thick, so to keep things hygienic the top layer of substrate should probably be removed and replaced every now and then. 

Species Notes:

Pseudoglomeris aerea:

A beautiful species with a slight metallic green sheen, covered in silvery-green hairs, and sporting reflective silver "mirror spots" on the abdomens of females and nymphs. Typical Pseudoglomeris care, and being a temperate Chinese species, they need a winter diapause. Pretty hardy and forgiving, and prolific for this genus as well, a good introduction to Pseudoglomeris.

Pseudoglomeris angustifolia:

This species and Pseudoglomeris semisulcata (both members of the subgenus Glomerexis) are very unique for Pseudoglomeris in having brachyapterous males.

Sadly angustifolia is not in culture anymore, but from what I can gather they have pretty standard Pseudoglomeris care, however no one ever took into account their mountainous Chinese origins, and never gave them a diapause (which they clearly need), leading to them fizzling out in culture consistently after a generation or two.

Pseudoglomeris beybeinkoi:

One of the most finicky Pseudoglomeris species, and yet the one collected and exported from Asia the most aside from magnifica. These are often mislabeled AS magnifica, because they are also a beautiful metallic green color. However they differ from magnifica by being much smaller, having a much smoother, glossier exoskeleton, and in having a darker coloration overall.

In addition to being a temperate Chinese species that needs a winter diapause, this species is quite heat sensitive even in the summer, and doesn't seem to like temperatures much above 77F° for prolonged periods of time. Humidity fluctuations can also apparently cause die offs, overall a very unforgiving species.

Pseudoglomeris nigra:

A glossy black species hailing from Taiwan and Japan, seemingly not needing a diapause. Sadly not in culture in the West, but apparently a rather protein hungry species, with typical Pseudoglomeris care.

Pseudoglomeris planiuscula:

A large matte black species, basically like larger, temperate Chinese P.tarsalis. Typical Pseudoglomeris care.

Pseudoglomeris semisulcata:

Like the closely related P.angustifolia, males of this species are brachyapterous. Seems to be a rather easy temperate Chinese species to culture, typical care for this genus.

Pseudoglomeris tarsalis:

A semi-glossy black species, probably the longest cultured Pseudoglomeris. These hail from tropical Thailand, and thus prefer warm temperatures year round, no diapause needed. One of the more prolific Pseudoglomeris species, with nymphs growing rather fast as well.

Pseudoglomeris valida moderata:

A glossy black species from temperate China, with typical care for this genus.

Pseudoglomeris valida valida:

This subspecies of P.valida hails from Vietnam, and thus doesn't appear to require a dispause. Care seems to be standard for the genus.

Pseudoglomeris sp. "Dazhou, Sichuan":

An unidentified and possibly undescribed species, the nymphs are a beautiful red wine color up until adulthood. Care is typical for a temperate Chinese species.

Eupolyphaga sinensis

Housing:

Something like a gallon container works well for a starter culture, eventually as their numbers rise, you'll want to move them to a larger enclosure. High ventilation levels are recommended, this species can be quite prone to fungal infections if not given adequate airflow. This species enjoys high humidity levels, which is rather unusual for a Corydiid.

Substrate about 2-3 inches deep should be provided, preferably coconut fiber, potting soil, peat moss, etc., sand is highly advised against. On top of the substrate, you should also provide a 1-2 inch layer of decaying hardwood leaf litter, as all life stages enjoy feeding on leaf litter. No hides are needed, as all life stages spend most of their time underground.

Diet:

Dog/cat/chick feed and leaf litter are the most important food sources for this species. They'll also eat fruits with more vigor than most other Corydiids, veggies usually seem to go ignored unless they're starving.


Temperature:

These roaches will breed when kept anywhere from 70-85F°, but breed and grow best when kept at 75F° or above.


Breeding/Life cycle:

Adult females live for around 8 months on average, whilst adult males are luck to live 1 month. Females lay and deposit oothecae directly into the substrate, roughly once a week, (depending on the temperature), and ooth size varies wildly, with each one containing anywhere from 6 to 20 eggs. The ooths take 2-3 months to hatch, and the resulting nymphs take around 6-8 months to mature, so long as they are kept warm and fed protein based foods regularly, (if kept too cool or not fed properly it can take much longer for nymphs to mature).

Moth Flies (Psychodidae)

This method has been used successfully for Clogmia, Lepiseodina, Psychoda, and Setomima spp., likely works for most other members of this family.

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Housing:

Keeping them in 16-32 oz deli cups, a least to start seems to be the best way to go. The lids should be mesh/fabric vented, if there's no ventilation at all they will suffocate and die as soon as you drop in food.

At the bottom of the deli cup there should be a 1-2 inch layer of crushed, decaying hardwood leaf litter, and you're gonna wanna flood that with water until the leaf litter just barely protrudes above the surface of the water. Add water as it evaporates, the larvae are aquatic, but are also poor swimmers and need to be able to breach the surface of the water to breath it seems.

You can add a couple sticks, a vertically slanted piece of bark, etc. for adults to cling to when they mature if you wish, but this isn't necessary and they'll just crawl around on the sides of the enclosure and rest there.

Diet:

Larvae feed on decaying leaf litter medium, and should also be offered dog food, which will turn to mush in the water and they'll dig into it. Adults either also feed on the soggy dog food, or don't eat anything at all.

Temperature:

Room temperature 68-74F° seems to work just fine for these, but they can take warmer temps OK too, and may breed faster kept warmer.

Breeding/Life Cycle:

Adults live a week or two, and produce lots of larvae that then take only 1-2 months to mature, depending on the species, dog food offering frequency, temperatures, etc.. Breeding these is very straightforward and as long as you don't put too much water, or ever let them dry out, they should thrive.

Overall an underrated fly family, with lots of cute and nicely patterned species, that has some interesting feeder potential.

Panesthiinae spp.

Housing:

These roaches can be started off in anything ranging from a one gallon container to a 5 gallon bin, obviously it's easier to observe a starter colony's progress in a smaller enclosure, and small species don't need a ton of room.

A minimum of 3-4 inches of substrate should be provided, and should consist primarily of crushed rotten hardwood and/or flake soil. For the crushed rotten wood, most species are fine with the level of decay being red rot or even more degraded, however most prefer or at least relish white rot, and in the case of some picky species/genera (like Salganea incerta) white rot definitely seems to be best for optimal breeding.

Highly degraded leaf litter and certain composts may be added to the mix but are mostly filler, Panesthiinae really seem to specialize in eating wood matter, so this should make up most of the substrate.

No hides are needed, as all life stages spend most of their time underground, in various tunnels and chambers. All currently cultured species seem to prefer high humidity, and tend to do well with low to moderate airflow. Neither adults or nymphs can climb smooth surfaces.

Diet:

Rotten wood makes up the bulk of their diet, but growth/breeding seems to be sped up at least moderately by offering supplemental foods regularly, such as dog/cat/chick feed, fruits and veggies. Salganea and Ancaudellia seem to be protein hogs, whereas Panesthia are more partial to fruits. Leaf litter and some composts will be nibbled on as well but are usually ignored when high quality rotten wood is offered (white rot being a favorite of most species).


Temperature:

A lot of the species in this family can be a bit heat sensitive, and it's generally recommended to keep them in the 68-75F° range. However, if the substrate is very deep, and the enclosure well ventilated, it seems some species can take temperatures up to 80-85F° with little issue (and this may speed up growth/breeding a bit).


Breeding/Life cycle:

Adults live for 1-3 years depending on the species. Females take 4-7 months on average to gestate their broods, with larger species taking the longest. The litters are usually small, only 6-15 nymphs, sometimes a bit more. The resulting nymphs take around 6-10 months to mature depending on the species, though if not fed supplemental foods and kept very cool, it might take even longer.

Adults of most species in this family start out fully winged, but then usually tear/chew their wings off shortly after maturity. In the wild they use their wings to find new logs to colonize, and then they tear their wings off, since they no longer need them, and they only get in the way when tunneling into wood. Some species (Salganea spp. especially) seem to show a degree of paternal care towards their offspring, and the nymphs stay very close to the adults.

They don't usually have too many pest issues, though some pests of notable concern are fungus gnats, certain millipedes and isopods, due to them competing directly for food and eating the rotten wood much faster than the roaches can. All wood material used for these roaches should be sterilized to avoid any pests, predators or pathogens from sneaking in on freshly collected materials.

These species can can a lot of neglect and forgetfulness, however their substrate should never be allowed to dry out, as this would kill most, if not all individuals in the colony.

Overall this group of roaches is is rather easy to keep and breed and can be pretty hardy, as long as you avoid making any simple mistakes with them.

Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches (Gromphadorhini spp.)

Housing:

Anything from a 2 gallon to a 5 gallon bin works well for a starter colony, with larger enclosures being preferable for larger species obviously. A 5-10 gallon setup would work well as a permanent setup for most species. A tight fitting lid (preferably a gasket) is HIGHLY recommended, since all life stages climb well and nymphs are escape artists. The last thing you want is for nymphs of one hisser species to find their way into a different hisser species' enclosure, and then you end up with hybrids...

A high amount of ventilation is recommended for optimal breeding, and most species only like half to a third of their enclosure kept humid, the rest quite dry. Drying them out periodically between waterings usually isn't a huge problem for most species.

A lot of the more common, hardy hissers can be bred without a substrate, however the finicky species prefer having a substrate, and it's much easier to maintain proper humidity levels for all hisser species when you have a substrate for humidity retention.

Lots of hides in the form of eggcrates, bark, cardboard tubes, plywood roach-huts, etc. should be provided, the more surface area the better. Males of some species can be quite territorial and will beat each other up if there's not enough hides, and without a lot of surface area hissers can get crowded and mature into very small adults.

Diet:

Dog/cat/fish/chick food, fruits and veggies work well as the staple diet. Adult female hissers especially are fond of fruits, and having fresh fruits available helps get them to give birth more consistently (this is especially true for the more finicky hisser spp.). Elliptorhina and Princisia seem to love feeding on leaf litter as well, Gromphadorhina will ignore it for the most part.

Temperature:

Temps in the 75-90F° range are recommended for optimal breeding.

Breeding/Life Cycle:

Adults live 1-3 years on average, though there are records of some adults (usually males) pushing the 4-5 year mark. The larger species typically live longer than the smaller ones do, and a few pet hissers in a non-breeding colony are always gonna live longer than adults in breeding colonies (since the stress of breeding, fighting over mates and food can really shorten the lifespan of adult roaches).

Females gestate their broods for 3-5 months depending on the species, temperature and ventilation levels. Nymphs of most species mature in 6 or so months under optimal conditions.

Hissers are quite hardy and generally don't mind the occasional lapse in care, filth buildups or most pests infestations. Crowding generally isn't a huge issue other than causing adults to mature at a relatively small size. Some of the more finicky species may prefer substrate being replaced every now and then as it becomes covered in frass, and if you're not careful, phorid fly infestations can also cause problems for hissers if dead bodies start piling up. But other than that, these are pretty sturdy roaches, great for beginners.

Hissers of basically all genera CAN AND WILL hybridize with each other, regardless of being different species/genera from each other. Sadly many hybrids have been created accidentally in the pet/feeder hobby, almost always mislabeled and sold under pure species names, and it's gotten to the point where hybrids are far more common than pure stock of many hisser species... Be careful where you source your hissers, since hybrids often look less pretty than their pure bred counterparts and lack the unique morphology features each species has. And never, NEVER keep males and females of different hisser species together, the only acceptable way of keeping multiple hisser species together is keeping only males together, no females.

Species Notes:

Aeluropoda insignis (Flat Horn Hisser):

A species with uniquely flat morphology. They are hardy and prolific, and do well with standard hisser care.

Elliptorhina chopardi (Dwarf Hisser):

Most species in this genus are considered "Dwarf Hissers" due to their small size, though these are the OG Dwarves. Oddly can be somewhat finicky and slow to breed, ensuring they have good ventilation levels, a quarter to half the enclosure kept humid, and a varied diet helps keep them happy. 

Elliptorhina coquereliana (Dark Dwarf Hisser):

Not much info is available on this species yet, but it appears they like conditions similar to chopardi, are similarly slow breeding, and at times finicky.

Elliptorhina davidi (Bumpy Hisser):

Perhaps THE most difficult to breed hisser species, with large, inexplicable die offs being relatively common. There's a lot of debate as to the specific conditions this species likes, some say they like it very dry with only a corner of the enclosure kept humid, others say high humidity is the way to go with half or more of the enclosure kept moist... But everyone seems to agree that high ventilation, consistent heat, and a clean, non-crowded setup are key to keeping populations healthy and avoiding large die offs.

Elliptorhina javanica (Halloween Hisser):

This species is a hobby classic, and is pretty widespread in culture. Can be a little finicky at times, but when given high heat and lots of fruits, breeds pretty prolifically.

Elliptorhina laevigata (V-horn Hisser):

The largest of the hobby Elliptorhina, this species almost went extinct in the hobby a decade or so ago. Thankfully they've stabilized in culture now, and seem to do best when kept on a 50/50 humidity gradient, with lots of ventilation and a varied diet.

Gromphadorhina portentosa (Common Madagascar Hisser):

Once the most commonly cultured hisser species, sadly MOST "portentosa" on the market are now hybrids... Pure stock still exists though and isn't too hard to get a hold of if you know where to look, in the US hobby alone we have the "1972 Cleveland Aquarium" stock, the "LLE Mahogany" morph isolated from the Cleveland stock, the more recently imported and strikingly colored "Masoala, Madagascar" strain, and the probably pure "UCR" strain that's recently entered the pet trade.

Very hardy and easy to care for, breeds readily under a variety of conditions and can be prolific enough to use as feeders.

Gromphadorhina oblongonota (Wide Horn Hisser):

This species is enormous and relatively slow growing/breeding compared to other hissers. Getting females to give birth can be challenging at times, super high ventilation, consistent heat and a varied diet are key to breeding these consistently. They also seem to prefer at least a third to half the setup kept humid, they don't love it super dry. Since this species is so big, they need a ton of room and surface area, males are very territorial and in addition to beating each other up, can also stress females out too if there's not enough surface area.

Gromphadorhina sp. "Unidentified" (Sidestripe Hisser):

This strain has yet to be formally unidentified, but according to taxonomist and hisser experts George Beccaloni may simply be a locale or new subspecies of G.portentosa. Compared to standard portentosa, these are quite slow breeding and not very prolific, it seems they prefer dry conditions and high heat. Major males, while rare, can rival those of oblongonota in bulk.

Princisia vanwaerebeki "Androhamana" & "Big/Black" (Vibrant Hisser):

These are large hissers with unique pronotum morphology, mature males of pure stock will always have an anterior notch in their pronotums, with this being most noticeable on major males. This species is slow breeding, but they give birth to very large litters of nymphs that grow relatively fast. Large males can be quite territorial, so lots of space and hides are recommended. This species seems to prefer higher humidity, with at least half the enclosure kept humid, but also likes very high airflow. Curiously, I've noticed adding leaf litter to their enclosure seems to sometimes get females to give birth, if fruits aren't doing it for them.

Princisia vanwaerebeki "Tiger" (Tiger Hisser):

ex. "Gromphadorhina grandidieri" (which actually look nothing like the hobby "Tigers". This smaller strain of Princisia is a fan of high heat, lots of fruits and good airflow. Again, like the other Princisia strains these prefer higher humidity than other hissers, about a 50/50 humidity gradient (maybe even 70-30 erring on the humid side, if your ambient air humidity is low and they have a lot of ventilation).